1. Continuation - Septic
Systems - Sizing and Maintenance
This is the second and final in a multi-part series on septic systems. Last
month's newsletter talked about The Basics including the components of the
system and how they work. This month we are discussing Sizing and Maintenance
of domestic septic systems. Please work with your community public offices
or with experts when designing and installing your septic system.
Note: Do not confuse a simple holding tank with a septic system. Holding
tanks require weekly or monthly pumping out because they have no planned
leakage path.
Sizing
===============================================================================
Generally the old adage, 'the bigger, the better' applies to septic systems.
The Tank
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The tank should be large enough to retain the liquid for not less than 1
day, and preferably 2 to 3 days or more. But nothing is that simple. As sludge
and scum accumulate in the tank, the usable volume is reduced, resulting
in reduced retention time of the next batch of sewage. A properly designed
and used septic system should have the capacity to store solids for about
five years or more ... a typical household septic tank will have a capacity
between 1000 and 3000 gallons.
The Absorption Bed
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Keep the absorption bed well away from existing trees and do not plant shrubs
or trees over the absorption bed or you will have very nice trees and a septic
system bed that has to be replaced at great expense. Remember that tree roots
of many trees can extend far from the trunk.
Sizing an absorption bed is complex and the method varies. Basically, you
have to determine the percolation rate or absorption rate of saturated soil
where the bed will be located. It typically ends up somewhere between 10
and 60 minutes per inch of water in a prepared test hole - say 50mpi. You
use the perc rate with local charts, to look up the square footage of absorption
bed per bedroom - say 300 square feet. You then multiply the number of bedrooms
by the square footage from the chart to arrive at the total square footage,
say 900 square feet for a 3 bedroom home. If you are using 2 foot wide trenches
for your absorption bed, you would need 450 lineal feet of trench. Assuming
a trench cannot exceed 100 feet in length, you will need FIVE 90 foot trenches
or some equivalent configuration. This is just an example.
Maintenance
===============================================================================
When you first start using your new septic system, some experts recommend
a starter culture be introduced into the septic system to speed up the initial
propagation of bacteria. This is unnecessary but harmless. You should NEVER
add chemicals to help the bacteria, even in a small septic system.
Avoid driving over your absorption bed with cars or heavy vehicles. Lawn
tractors or mowers are fine.
The general cleaning interval for a properly designed septic system is 4
to 5 years. I have heard of people cleaning them every 2 years but this is
extreme. I have also heard of going 10 years between cleanings, but there
is risk involved in waiting this long if things are not working, since problems
are not obvious until you open the cover. When you have your system cleaned,
ask the cleaning agency whether it 'needed' cleaning and adjust the interval
accordingly. Also be sure that the agency checks for damage and be sure to
correct any problems promptly.
When septic systems are treated properly they require no day-to-day maintenance
and will serve you and your family well for many years but the septic system
is a giant bacteria culture and some care is required.
Only allow easily bio-degradable substances to flow to your septic system.
ABSOLUTELY NONE OF THE FOLLOWING SHOULD BE PUT INTO YOUR SYSTEM:
-
cigarette butts or cigar butts
as these contain toxic nicotine which can seriously
impact the bacteria in your septic system
-
non bio-degradable materials
such as condoms, or feminine hygiene applicators
or other related products
-
plastic-lined disposable diapers
-
pills (please return these
to your pharmacy for disposal).
-
paints, solvents of any sort,
either latex or oil-based.
-
insecticides or any strong
chemicals.
The following are suggestions that will help you
septic system do its job better:
-
Use non-perfumed, non-tinted
toilet paper as it is easiest to breakdown (and
better for you too).
-
Avoid glass, ceramic, sand,
porcelain, and metals going down the drain, as
they may clog traps and displace the bacteria in
your system.
-
Avoid over-use of detergents
(i.e. only use what you need) especially cold-water
detergents which may remain solid
-
Avoid over-use of strong chlorine
and household cleansers although regular quantities
diluted in warm laundry water are usually harmless
to a mature system.
-
Trash compactors will work,
but vegetable food waste makes great compost so
please consider using an outdoor compost recycling
system for vegetable waste.
-
Avoid pouring large quantities
of pure grease such as from fowl or pork, straight
into your drains or toilets. This is bio degradable
but can clog your sewage pipes and present an abnormal
load on the system. These substances may be sealed
in a container and disposed of in your regular
garbage collection. NEVER put them or any meat
products in compost recyclers.
Some Useful Links
Septic-Info.Com
http://www.septic-info.com/
A Homeowner's Guide to Installation and Maintenance
http://muextension.missouri.edu/explore/envqual/eq0401.htm
2. Auxiliary
Heating/Cooling
The subject of auxiliary heating / cooling is a large subject and more complex
than most people would initially think. Requirements for additional heating
or cooling begin with a relatively small home, which may need additional
heat in the finished basement during the winter and additional cooling in
the upstairs areas during the summer, to relative large homes which need
additional heat / cooling just to maintain normal temperatures. There are
multiple solutions available and we will cover auxiliary heating in this
newsletter beginning with smaller homes and auxiliary cooling will be covered
in a newsletter next spring.
Auxiliary heating can take several different forms. This includes house orientation
to take advantage of solar heating during the day, more powerful furnace
fans to push the air into all areas of the home, constant running fans to
heat the home more uniformly, additional auxiliary fans to push the hot air
into areas you need heat, gas fireplaces in strategic areas of the home to
add heat, electric wall heaters placed in hard to heat areas and of course
either larger furnaces or multiple furnaces to heat larger homes.
When you are planning the design and construction of your home it is important
to consider all of your heating and cooling needs. This includes the general
heating of the home and also those areas of the home that are usually hard
to heat. We begin with house orientation, which is important if you would
like to take advantage of solar heating during the winter. Multiple windows
facing south-to-south west in northern climates will maximize the heat intake
into your house in the winter and minimize the cooling needs in the summer
time.
Next, your level of insulation installed in your home will also impact the
overall heating and cooling needs of your home. Well-insulated attics and
walls will minimize the heat loss and the load on your heating systems. Likewise
doors and windows that are well insulated, double and triple glazed will
assist in reducing heat loss as well. We have covered various types of windows
in earlier newsletters.
Climate and size of the home are two final factors you will need to evaluate.
The heating load for a home in Ottawa Canada, were temperatures occasionally
dip to –40 degrees Fahrenheit in the winter time will require a much
different furnace solution than a home in Washington DC, were the temperature
may dip to –10 degrees Fahrenheit.
A common complaint of all homeowners in cold climates is that heating systems
do not push hot air into the finished basement during cold winter days. Hot
air naturally rises; so many heating systems are unable to heat the finished
basement to the owner’s satisfaction. Many consumers are arranging
for either wood fireplaces or gas fireplaces to be installed as an auxiliary
heat source as well as an aesthetically pleasing environment. A wood-burning
fireplace can be much cheaper over the long hall, if you have a ready supply
of inexpensive hardwood for consumption. Gas fireplaces with electric fans
will force the hot air into the room to be heated. They are much more convenient
and easy to use, usually a flip of a switch turns them on and the force air
fan can be temperature regulated.
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Regardless of your needs it is important to have an expert evaluate the home
and the size of furnace or furnaces that you should have installed. Over
sizing a furnace will mean not only more capital cost for the furnace, but
more ongoing expense as well for your energy costs. Have the expert show
you his or her analysis to ensure that you have the right size of furnace
for your home. Size of the home, insulation levels, climate, occupant preferences,
and auxiliary-heating plans such as fireplaces are some of the characteristics
they should consider.
We will cover auxiliary cooling systems in a future newsletter early in the
new year.
Some useful links to check out
Heating Electric Plus
http://doityourself.com/hvac/index.shtml
Sizing Residential Heating Systems
http://www.bobvila.com/ArticleLibrary/Subject/HVAC/Radiant__and__Hydronic/SizingResidentialSystems.html
Home heating types
http://homebuying.about.com/cs/appliances/a/homeheat.htm
3. Healthy House - Flooring
One of the commonly overlooked items when building a healthy home are floor coverings.
There are many choices for flooring but unfortunately not all of them are good
for your health.
Ceramic tile floors are very healthy floors. They come in a variety of colours
and finishes, which are very durable, and very attractive. They are easy to clean,
usually with nothing more than half a cup of vinegar in a pail of warm water.
They do not stain and they do not require waxing. They may cost a little more
to install properly but they will easily outlast carpeting. Ceramic tile usually
has a glaze or glass coating and does not outgas. The mortar or grout used under
and between the tile is also inert. Ceramic tile flooring is normally laid on
a thicker layer of plywood than carpeting. This plywood may outgas on the underside
but the topside is effectively sealed off by the tile so in terms of exposed
surface, you are substantially better off with ceramic tile than carpeting. Other
considerations of ceramic flooring are that it is cool on the feet and not very
forgiving when you drop a plate or glass, and it is often slippery when wet.
Genuine solid hard wood floors are healthy floors because they are relatively
easy to clean. Hardwood flooring is often kiln dried and most of the natural
gases are driven out during that process. Care must be taken when choosing flooring
finishes as some may release harmful gases for several weeks after the material
is applied to the wood.
Be careful with the new Do-It-Yourself so-called laminated flooring which is
primarily a dense particle compound, moulded under high pressure, with a thin
decorative skin on the top. This flooring is relatively easy to clean but beware,
do not allow water to stand on the floor or soak in from the underside (i.e.
you don't really want this in a wet basement). If soaked, the compound swells
and distorts and the repairs are very difficult. Use caution when this laminated
floor is being installed, the dust is fine and abrasive. It is harmful if inhaled,
and very difficult to get out of your heating ducts. Some versions of laminated
flooring are prone to outgas, but the newest ones are labelled 100% free of emissions.
Vinyl tile and cushioned flooring are quick and inexpensive to put down. Almost
all of these materials will outgas, some more than others.
Carpeting is not a very health-wise flooring. It is very difficult to clean thoroughly
and eventually mites, mould, dust and chemicals will collect in and under the
carpet. Many artificial carpet materials themselves outgas substantially and
for an extended period of time (years) and of course underlay and the laminated
sub floor beneath the carpet will add to the out gassing. If you must use carpeting
in your home, consider smaller area rugs on tile or on hardwood. These smaller
rugs can be cleaned more easily or replaced.
Tips
Consult your tile-flooring specialist before the sub floor is installed in your
new home. Make sure that the plan is clear and that the carpentry team understands
what type and how thick a sub floor is required in the areas where ceramic tile
will be installed.
Research and decide on a finish for your hardwood floors well ahead of time.
Look for finishes that protect but do not outgas appreciably. Ask your flooring
supplier to recommend healthy finishes.
Ask your builder to avoid the glue compounds for gluing ceramic tile, vinyl tile,
and carpeting. Read the warnings on the side of the can and you'll gasp. Ceramic
tile should be held down with a concrete-like compound or a glue known to be
safe. Carpets do not normally require gluing.
If you must use wall-to-wall carpeting in your healthy new home, try to use natural
fibers like wool which are less harmful. Cleaning is still a problem.
Furnace fans should always be shut down when any insulation, drywall or carpentry
is being done or your ducts and furnace will be full of irritating and possibly
hazardous dust.
Some useful links to check out
Wood Floors On Line
http://www.woodfloorsonline.com/consumer/healthyfloors.html
Ceramic Tile
http://www.wmctv.com/Global/story.asp?S=722715
Superseal Basement Systems using laminated flooring
http://www.installinglaminateflooringlaminated.com/page4.html
4. Thought For The Day
When it comes to eating you can sometimes help yourself more
by helping yourself less.
--Richard Armour
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